2008/10/18

Cat Carriers - Choose the Best One for your Cat


Are you looking for a cat carrier and don't know where to start? Without a doubt, cat carriers are necessary items for most cat lovers. You need one to transport your cat from place to place easily and securely. You need a carrier to take your cat to vet, to the groomer, and to the boarding facility. And a cat carrier is a must for plane trips. Fortunately, you can easily find a wide selection of cat carriers online as well as at the traditional pet store in your neighborhood.

So where do you start? How do you choose the right carrier for your cat? Price is definitely going to be an important factor to take into account during the selection process. But there are other elements to consider as well. Here are some tips and suggestions to help you choose the right carrier for your cat:

1.) Consider the size of the carrier. Make sure your cat can move and stretch comfortably inside the carrier. Most cats don't like being confined, so select a carrier that provides your cat with enough space and ventilation.

2.) Think long-term. Choose a carrier that is made of long-lasting and easy-to-clean materials. In the long run, buying a good quality carrier will save you money as you don't have to replace it as often.

3.) Air travel. If you plan on traveling by plane make sure the carrier you buy meets airline requirements. Most airlines have specific requirements for pet carriers.

4.) Which material is best? There are soft carriers and hard carriers, and they both have their pros and cons. You need to consider your cat's needs, safety and comfort. Soft carriers are perfect for small to mid-size cats while hard carriers are better for larger and heavier cats. Regardless of the type you prefer, make sure the carrier is secure and comfortable for your cat.

5.) For the pampered cat. If you want a more sophisticated carrier, then consider pet strollers, carrier backpacks and carriers on wheels. Many of these pieces are easy to handle and store away.

In addition to these factors, make sure that the latch of the carrier's door locks firmly and securely. You don't want your kitty jumping out of the carrier at the worst possible moment and place.

And, if your carrier doesn't come with a soft mat, place a soft blanket or a piece of soft fabric so that your cat can lie down comfortably.

by Claudia Escobar

2008/08/23

Five Cat Food Factors That Discourage Feline UTD




One of the most common causes of Feline Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) is what your cat eats. A feline diet that is too high in carbohydrates and magnesium, and low in protein can lead to FLUTD. When their cat is initially diagnosed with FLUTD, feline owners will usually first try to get their kitty to eat the prescription food recommended by their vet.

But what if the cat rejects their offering? As an alternative, there are specific, non-prescription cat foods available to maintain your cat's urine pH balance at 6.6. A high urine pH value indicates struvite crystal formation in your cat's urinary tract. The challenge is to find the right cat food that appeals to kitty, contains the proper amount of protein and magnesium, and has few or no by-products.

If you turn out to be one of those owners who has to find an alternative cat food, then here's five things to evaluate when selecting cat food to prevent future FLUTD occurences in your kitty:

1. What's the Most Common Ingredient?

The first and most common ingredient that should be listed is protein - meat or fish. Read the label carefully - here's some variations you could see:

Canned cat food:

Beef
Chicken Liver
Deboned Chicken
Beef Broth

Dry cat food:

Chicken
Organic Chicken
Herring Meal
Chicken Meal

Some other good ingredients that will help your kitty maintain good urinary tract health are blueberries and cranberries. Vegetables such as carrots are good, and rice is a good grain for your kitty to consume.

2. Are There Any By-Products?

Are by-products listed as one of the ingredients? If so, put that food back on the shelf and keep looking. By-products are filler material, and have limited nutritional value for your kitty. By-products are typically carbohydrates, and since cats are carnivores, they need protein, not carbs, for proper nutrition.

Here are some examples of by-products:

Canned cat food:

Corn gluten meal
Ground yellow corn
Soybean meal
Beef By-Products
Meat By-Products

Dry cat food:

Ground Yellow Corn
Chicken By-Product Meal
Corn Gluten Meal
Wheat flour
Corn Meal
Soy flour

3. How Much Moisture Is In the Cat Food?

What's the percentage of moisture in the cat food you're evaluating? The higher the number, the better for your kitty. More moisture means your cat will urinate more. Increased urination will flush out any crystals that may be trying to form in your cat's urinary tract. Canned cat food has a higher moisture content than dry.

4. How Much Magnesium Does the Cat Food Contain?

An excess of magnesium will contribute to struvite crystal formation (FLUTD). Some magnesium is necessary, but generally look for cat food that has a maximum of 0.025% magnesium to prevent struvite crystals.

5. Does the Cat Food Contain DL-Methionine?

DL-Methionine is an amino acid with sulfur, which helps regulate ammonia formation in urine. This amino acid helps maintain your cat's urine pH balance around 6.6, which is normal and does not encourage crystal formation.

And... since cats are cats (which means they are in charge!), be aware that what you select for them may not be what they want to eat, if they don't like the taste. If this happens, you'll need to start over again until you find a wholesome, nutritious cat food that merits two paws up from your feline!

Keep these five factors in mind when shopping for cat food to maintain your kitty's urinary tract and prevent FLUTD.

And remember, when you're considering changing your cat's diet, consult with your vet. She or he will give you expert guidance and information to make the transition easier for you and your kitty.

By: Nancy Wigal

2008/08/13

Introducing a Second Cat to a Household


As cats are inherently territorial, introducing a second cat to the household can be an awe-inspiring task. Here are are some tips and tricks to make life a little easier. A cats home really is his castle. One of the first things your cat will do when introduced to a new environment is mark his territory. She does this by leaving smells at the point of each object. When a new cat comes along the smell of another cat will send the message "Back off! You're trespassing!"

The approach of another cat onto her territory will immediately cause heckles to rise, however sweet and harmless the cat newcomer maybe. So how can you introduce a cat to the household when there is already a dominant cat?

The accepted method is to do it by degrees. This is the method we used when we were introducing three month old Ellie, our blue Burmese girl to Louie, our red Somali boy. Lou was 7 months old and had been in the house for one month.

Both cats need to get used to the sight, smells and presence of the other. A safe way to do this is to create a small territory for the newcomer. This could be a spare room perhaps that you can stop the resident cat going into. Spray it with household smells and allow the newcomer to mark his territory. This gives him a place to retreat to if things get a little rough - a safe harbour.

The next step is to put the newcomer back into the cat box and take him down to another room where the resident cat is. Place the cat box down and leave the two cats in the room together. They will not be a threat to each other because they clearly can not get to each other. But it will allow them to get used to the sight, smells and presence of each other in a safe environment.

The next step is to place the box in different places in the room and then the house. After this stage swap where the two cats are. In other words place the resident cat into the box and let the newcomer roam free in the room. The more this is done and interchanged over a long time as possible, the more they will get used to each other without feeling the other is a threat. The last step is to open the box in a room where you can supervise what is happening and allow the newcomer to retreat to his own room if necessary. Often by this time , the cats will have accepted each other and tolerance may even turn to friendship! A good sign is when the cats are eating together. As all cat lovers know there will always be "spats", but they can usually work things out themselves without any harm.

There is always a possibility that the resident cat is far too dominant and territorial to allow the newcomer in. This indeed may lead to quite aggressive behaviour. In which case the owner should seek professional help or consider not introducing a second cat at all.

by Nick Cassells


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